Nothing booked today, just a couple of scenic walks in the West End, an organ recital, and a Barbie exhibition. To end the day, I spent a couple of hours in the Koelschip Yard.
The breakfast pick of the day was Rabbie’s Eggs Singl-end. Again, familiar ingredients—egg, bacon, haggis—but the sriracha hollandaise and chilli jam really elevated it, and gave it a nice kick.
Singl-EndRabbie’s Eggs at Singl-End
Then I was off to the West End! So, on Mastodon I follow this account, This Is Glasgow, which posts photos of architecture and architectural details in Glasgow. The man behind this account, Colin M. Drysdale, is also the author of a book: Glasgow Uncovered. It is a collection of walks all around Glasgow, and I picked a couple to actually walk. This morning I started with chapter 8. West End, Part I. In between sights, I stopped for coffee at Black Pine Coffee Co.
Glasgow Uncovered: 8. West End, Part IGlasgow Uncovered: 8. West End, Part IGlasgow Uncovered: 8. West End, Part IGlasgow Uncovered: 8. West End, Part IGlasgow Uncovered: 8. West End, Part IGlasgow Uncovered: 8. West End, Part IGlasgow Uncovered: 8. West End, Part IGlasgow Uncovered: 8. West End, Part IBlack Pine Coffee CoBlack Pine Coffee CoGlasgow Uncovered: 8. West End, Part IGlasgow Uncovered: 8. West End, Part IGlasgow Uncovered: 8. West End, Part I
I rushed and shortcut the last bit to make it to the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum for the one o’ clock organ recital. It was quite a modern set this time, with pieces from The Phantom of the Opera amongst others.
After the last notes, I went down to the Barbie exhibition, where I learned about the history and design of the world’s most famous and iconic dolls. I didn’t realise how much they’ve changed over the years to be more inclusive.
Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum – Organ recitalKelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum – BarbieKelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum – BarbieKelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum – BarbieKelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum – BarbieKelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum – BarbieKelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum – BarbieKelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum – BarbieKelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum – BarbieKelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum – BarbieKelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum – Barbie
In the afternoon it was time for Glasgow Uncovered chapter 9.:West End, Part II, with a coffee stop at 1841 Coffee.
Glasgow Uncovered: 9. West End, Part IIGlasgow Uncovered: 9. West End, Part IIGlasgow Uncovered: 9. West End, Part IIGlasgow Uncovered: 9. West End, Part IIGlasgow Uncovered: 9. West End, Part IIGlasgow Uncovered: 9. West End, Part IIGlasgow Uncovered: 9. West End, Part IIGlasgow Uncovered: 9. West End, Part IIGlasgow Uncovered: 9. West End, Part IIGlasgow Uncovered: 9. West End, Part II1841 Coffee1841 CoffeeGlasgow Uncovered: 9. West End, Part IIGlasgow Uncovered: 9. West End, Part IIGlasgow Uncovered: 9. West End, Part IIGlasgow Uncovered: 9. West End, Part IIGlasgow Uncovered: 9. West End, Part II
After a bit of souvenir shopping and a little rest at the hotel, I went down south for dinner at Freddy & Hicks. The Hawaiian burger was delicious, and jalapeño mash? A stroke of genius!
Freddy & HicksHawaiian burger and jalapeño mash at Freddy & Hicks
The rest of the evening was spent at the Koelschip Yard with Dom, the regulars at the bar, and some brilliant beers!
Today I managed to check off the last of the publicly accessible buildings by Charles Rennie Mackintosh: the Mackintosh at the Willows tearoom, and the Queen’s Cross Church. It was also my last Scottish hash this week, actually IN Edinburgh this time.
Today’s breakfast place choice was Cranberry’s, because I was intrigued by their Nacho Breakfast. Turns out it was mainly a Scottish cooked breakfast, with tattie scones fried as nachos, and the addition of salsa and guacamole. Still nice though!
Cranberry’sNacho breakfast at Cranberry’s
At Mackintosh at the Willow—nowadays in the care of the NTS—I had booked a tour at 11:00. That meant I got to see parts of the building I wasn’t allowed to go when I was there years ago for an afternoon tea. And the exhibit must be new anyway.
NTS Mackintosh at the WillowNTS Mackintosh at the Willow tourNTS Mackintosh at the Willow tourNTS Mackintosh at the Willow tourNTS Mackintosh at the Willow tourNTS Mackintosh at the Willow tourNTS Mackintosh at the Willow tourNTS Mackintosh at the Willow tourNTS Mackintosh at the Willow tourNTS Mackintosh at the Willow tourNTS Mackintosh at the Willow tourNTS Mackintosh at the Willow tourNTS Mackintosh at the Willow tourNTS Mackintosh at the Willow tourNTS Mackintosh at the Willow exhibitNTS Mackintosh at the Willow exhibit
I had been to the Riverside Museum a couple of times already, but they had a new addition I really wanted to see: Glasgow Subway car 128. Too bad you couldn’t go inside, but a nostalgic reunion nevertheless.
Glasgow Subway nowGlasgow Subway nowGlasgow Subway nowRiverside Museum and the Tall ShipGlasgow Subway then – Car 128Glasgow Subway then – Car 128Glasgow Subway way back then
The Mackintosh Queen’s Cross Church is the only church in the world designed by the great Scottish architect, designer and artist, Charles Rennie Mackintosh, and the last of his (publicly accessible) buildings I hadn’t been to yet. Until today!
After a coffee at Laboratorio Espresso, I had to get ready for the last hash of the trip, in Edinburgh.
Laboratorio Espresso
However, I went a bit earlier than necessary, so I could grab a beer and a bite at BrewDog DogHouse, one of the few BrewDog bars still left, and the first one I visit after the takeover of the brand by Tilray. They still honour the stamp rewards, so those chicken tenders with Buffalo sauce and blue cheese dip, and tater tots, were on the house.
Run 2154 of The New Town H3 started and ended in Leslie’s Bar just a short bus ride away. For the first time—for me—the run stayed close to the centre, and passed quite a few sights. A lovely run to finish with!
👣 The New Town H3 Run #2154👣 The New Town H3 Run #2154👣 The New Town H3 Run #2154👣 The New Town H3 Run #2154👣 The New Town H3 Run #2154👣 The New Town H3 Run #2154👣 The New Town H3 Run #2154👣 The New Town H3 Run #2154👣 The New Town H3 Run #2154👣 The New Town H3 Run #2154👣 The New Town H3 Run #2154 – On Inn👣 The New Town H3 Run #2154
After a day in Glasgow, it was time to head out again in undiscovered country! Today, that was Falkirk. Wonders of engineering and artful evocations of ancient myths awaited me: the Falkirk Wheel and the Kelpies.
So I planned to have breakfast at Piece: the description of the Chicken Olé sandwich sounded delicious—and it turned out to be so—but somehow I missed the fact that it was takeaway only… Luckily they had a tiny terrace, and it had stopped raining, but it was the first time in years I had a coffee from a disposable cup.
PieceThe Chicken Olé sandwich and a cortado at Piece
I actually didn’t have time to search for a waste-free alternative this time, because I didn’t want to miss my planned train to Falkirk High. That station was nowhere near my destinations for today, and for this area, I had to use a bus operator I hadn’t used yet: Midland Bluebird. I would be using them all day, so I got a day ticket in their app.
My Midland Bluebird bus
The bus took me to the Falkirk Wheel, where I had booked a 50 minute boat ride, including two turns on The Wheel. I must say, it’s quite a feat of engineering!
The Falkirk WheelThe Falkirk WheelThe Falkirk WheelThe Falkirk WheelView from the Falkirk Wheel
Back in Falkirk centre, I had a Fiery Mango Chicken Sourdough Melt at Behind the Wall and a pit, before hopping on a bus again to my next destination.
Behind the WallBehind the WallFiery Mango Chicken Sourdough Melt at Behind the Wall
I could actually see The Kelpies already when I was taken up in the Falkirk Wheel, but to get there, it was still a ten minute walk from the nearest bus stop. That walk started all nice and sunny, but by the time I arrived, it was pouring down. Luckily there was a bridge providing cover to wait out the worst. So The Kelpies are a pair of monumental—really huge, I did not expect that—steel horse-heads by sculptor Andy Scott, representing both mythical, shape-shifting water horses, and the heavy horses once so important for the Scottish industry and economy.
The KelpiesThe KelpiesThe KelpiesThe Kelpies
Back in Glasgow, I remedied a huge oversight: until today, I had never seen the statue of Charles Rennie Mackintosh! And just a couple of minutes from there was The Ben Nevis, where I apparently hadn’t been for ten years already! I had a couple of drams to make up for it.
Charles Rennie MackintoshThe Ben NevisThe Ben Nevis
At The Islay Inn it was Tattie Scone Taco Tuesday. Yes, you read that right, they use potato based tacos, and that works remarkably well! But the real stars were the fillings: sticky chilli and irn bru chicken with sweet drop peppers and ranch, Stornoway black pudding, Ramsey’s haggis, caramelised onion and pepper sauce, and the—quite spicy—special was fajita chicken, spiced veg, chipotle mayo and chili.
The Islay InnTatie scone tacos at The Islay InnThe Islay Inn
The plan was to spend the rest of the evening in the Grunting Growler, working my way through the tap list and fridges, but it being primarily a beer shop, last call was already as early as nine thirty.
Grunting GrowlerGrunting Growler
An excellent excuse to pay a visit to the Scotia Bar, supposedly the oldest bar in Glasgow. I originally planned to go there on my first night, because it was conveniently close to my hotel anyway, but I was just too exhausted. Shit beers on keg, but some beauties on cask. And an awesome atmosphere, definitely worth the visit.
The ScotiaThe ScotiaThe Scotia. Hashers are everywhere.The Scotia
Day four of my trip, and only now I got to spend the whole day in Glasgow! A day well spent, with lots of history, art, and of course some beer and running.
Since I enjoyed their breakfast burrito so much last time, I had it again at their new location; The Spitfire Cafe.
Breakfast burrito at The Spitfire CafeSurely one cone is enough?Glasgow Central train station
Then I had to rush to Glasgow Central to catch a train to Nitshill, for a Behind The Scenes Tour of GMRC I booked at the Glasgow Museums Resource Centre. It was a seriously impressive collection, and it was nice to get a glimpse of the workshops as well!
Behind the Scenes Tour of the Glasgow Museums Resource CentreBehind the Scenes Tour of the Glasgow Museums Resource CentreBehind the Scenes Tour of the Glasgow Museums Resource CentreBehind the Scenes Tour of the Glasgow Museums Resource CentreBehind the Scenes Tour of the Glasgow Museums Resource CentreBehind the Scenes Tour of the Glasgow Museums Resource CentreBehind the Scenes Tour of the Glasgow Museums Resource CentreBehind the Scenes Tour of the Glasgow Museums Resource CentreBehind the Scenes Tour of the Glasgow Museums Resource CentreBehind the Scenes Tour of the Glasgow Museums Resource CentreBehind the Scenes Tour of the Glasgow Museums Resource CentreBehind the Scenes Tour of the Glasgow Museums Resource Centre, our guide Liam
After returning to the centre and finding two of my regular coffee places shut, I had my coffee at The Devil’s Roast. Stylish place, but maybe too stylish for me.
The Devil’s RoastThe Devil’s Roast
At the St Mungo Museum of Religious Life and Art I found remarkably little about St Mungo, but some impressive, moving pieces of art about atrocities committed in the name of religion instead.
St Mungo Museum of Religious Life and ArtSt Mungo Museum of Religious Life and ArtSt Mungo Museum of Religious Life and ArtSt Mungo Museum of Religious Life and ArtSt Mungo Museum of Religious Life and ArtSt Mungo Museum of Religious Life and ArtSt Mungo Museum of Religious Life and Art
The atmosphere at Rest was definitely more my style, and the coffee really nice. And right across the street was beer shop The Pursuit of Hoppyness, with even a beer on draught. They also had beers by No Limits Brewing, a local brewery I thought about visiting, but their taproom isn’t open during my stay.
The Pursuit of HoppynessThe Pursuit of HoppynessThe Pursuit of Hoppyness
After those beers it was time to change and head to Jordanhill for Glasgow H3 Run 2239. After a rather dark run–it’s October after all—we had Circle at The Three Craws, where I also had a steak & cheddar pie.
👣 Glasgow H3 Run #2239 (photo by Audrey)👣 Glasgow H3 Run #2239 (photo by Audrey)👣 Glasgow H3 Run #2239 (photo by Audrey)👣 Glasgow H3 Run #2239👣 Glasgow H3 Run #2239👣 Glasgow H3 Run #2239👣 Glasgow H3 Run #2239👣 Glasgow H3 Run #2239 – On Inn at Three Craws
Two more trains to get home, and that was the end of my first full Glasgow day this trip!
So yes, somehow I ended up running through the Scottish Borders today. The Edinburgh H3 tends to hash a bit outside of the city, but this was extreme, even for them. Worth it though! After the run, I was finally able to enjoy a bit of Glasgow.
To get to an 11:00 run in the Scottish Borders, I had to leave quite early, and get a breakfast to go at the Greggs in Glasgow Queen Street, which I then enjoyed on my train to Edinburgh Haymarket.
Good morning from Glasgow Queen Street!On the ScotRail train to Edinburgh Haymarket
There I was picked up by an Edinburgh hasher, and a 1h15 ride later, we arrived in Coldingham well in time for the start of Edinburgh H3 Run 2331. We caught a lucky break in the rain, and enjoyed many sunny sea views, and a few beers afterwards. Only minimal gravity testing…
At EH3 they traditionally have a pub lunch after the run. So shortly after circle, I found myself at The New Inn, eating the sizzling pork with wholegrain mustard, cider sauce, chips, and veg, with a pint.
👣 Edinburgh H3 Run #2331👣 Edinburgh H3 Run #2331👣 Edinburgh H3 Run #2331👣 Edinburgh H3 Run #2331👣 Edinburgh H3 Run #2331👣 Edinburgh H3 Run #2331👣 Edinburgh H3 Run #2331👣 Edinburgh H3 Run #2331👣 Edinburgh H3 Run #2331👣 Edinburgh H3 Run #2331👣 Edinburgh H3 Run #2331👣 Edinburgh H3 Run #2331 – Circle👣 Edinburgh H3 Run #2331 – On After: pub lunch
After another long car ride, followed by the train back to Glasgow, and a short subway ride—while they were still going, the Sunday service is rather short—I had a shower and a change in my hotel before
dinner at Yianni’s. The chicken gyro pita I had there was definitely better than anything I ever had in the Rue des Bouchers!
Yianni’sChicken gyro pita at Yianni’s
Stomach lined, it was time to try all the beers at Shilling Brewing Co. Well, not actually all of them, but there were quite a few I wanted to try.